Frolic Log Week 14: The Italian Lakes
Mastering the art of staying "in villa"
I’ll admit it—I wasn’t a lake person until I discovered the cool, deep, and enchanting waters of Italy’s northern lakes. Officially, there are eight of them: the infamous Lago di Como, the mighty Lago Maggiore, the enormous Lago di Garda, followed by the lesser-known Lago d’Iseo, Lago di Lugano, Lago d’Orta, and a few smaller ones that you’re fine being ignorant about. Northern Italians love their lakes; they consider them the local Riviera. You boat, you swim, you fish, you eat the fish, you drink the wine, you watch the sunset, you hit the casino (gambling is legal across the border in Switzerland), and you buy exquisite things. Long before these majestic shorelines were swarming with international tourists, there was George Clooney. Long before George Clooney, there was local industry and craftsmanship. Lake Como was once known for producing silks and textiles, while Lago Maggiore was renowned for its ceramics production. I recommend you take a trip and discover the history and romance of this area before modernity turns everything into Las Vegas.
My first ever Airbnb experience was on Lago d’Orta, probably eight or nine years ago. The owner of the “villa”—almost every house on the lake is referred to as a villa; the term is a little loose—slept in a tent on the expansive grounds to rake in some extra earnings on short-term rentals. The property was a two-story house with a balcony that jutted out directly over the lake. As we indulged in a tray of breakfast delights that had been left for us early in the morning as if by an invisible elf, dozens of fish swam below us in the turquoise waters. Kissed by the afternoon sun, we dipped in the lake and rejoiced at the balmy temperature (we were ready for a cold plunge), later drying out on the lawn while plucking sweet figs off a tree that stretched its branches low over the still body of water. In the evening, we tagged along when our host invited us to a nearby town for some drinks with his friends. Needless to say, my concept of tourism was forever changed.
So today, join me in a metaphorical dip in the refreshing waters of these mountain lakes, where stone steps descend directly into the bluest of blues while wispy clouds of moisture collide with forested hillsides above. As you navigate the winding roads that hug the coastlines, you’ll never know if you’re in Italy or Switzerland—the borders keep switching up like Elton John and Dua Lipa. The following properties are all about mastering the art of staying “in villa” and guaranteeing the best “vista lago,” so you can have a plate full of “pesce fresco di giornata” for your evening meal. Aside from the natural beauty of this area, you will fall in love with the local nuances: the pride of the waiter, the meticulously served coffee, the abundance of cheese, the obsession with manners, a respect for one’s elders, a contempt for reckless youth. A world in perfect harmony.
Stresa
Located on the Piedmont shore of Lago Maggiore, Stresa offers a grand hotel, a promenade, and an excellent view of the famous Borromean Islands. These islands, still largely owned by the aristocratic Milanese Borromeo family, were purchased in the 16th century to become lavish summer estates. Now a popular tourist attraction, you can get on a boat from Stresa to discover these magnificently designed oases filled with palaces, villas, gardens, fishermen’s homes, and delightful cafes and restaurants. And because there’s nothing worse than leaving a palace and heading back to scrappy lodgings, I have selected Villa Niobe to ensure your local accommodation is fit for royalty. The terrace, the private gardens, and the private lake access will allow you to skip the line for the boat and stand-up paddle directly to Isola Bella herself.
Nesso
Lake Como is shaped like a three-armed starfish. In my imagination, that’s the classic shape of a lake starfish, engineered to enhance its underwater cartwheeling across the lakebed. The eponymous city of Como finds itself on the southwestern leg of the lake, closest to the Swiss border. A 30-minute drive north brings us to Nesso - here, we are granted some of the most stunning views of the lake and its opposing shore, where the mountains are steep, lusciously overgrown, and speckled with colorful villas filled with fabulous guests. This old-world home offers a warm and simple interior, with bedrooms that resemble paintings from centuries past. The terrace offers indescribable views of the lake and a nearby ancient bridge built during the Middle Ages to connect two historic homes.
Colonno
Finding ourselves on the western shore of Lake Como, we take refuge at the delectable Villa Annette, furnished by the expert hand of a highly capable interior designer (they’re so good). Offering an entire four-story home, complete with a terrace and parking space, this property will comfortably fit a group of eight. The historic fishing village will provide an excellent soundtrack of delicate splashing waves, ringing church bells, and passing speedboats. I recommend you take a short drive to the town of Argegno for a Friday night dinner to surround yourself with chic Italian families sporting matching shoes and belts, and ordering espressos after dinner because they go well with a cigarette.
Leggiuno
For those who feel more comfortable in modern settings, I present a home with a pool and unspoiled view of Lago Maggiore. On the eastern side of Lago Maggiore, just a short drive from Malpensa Airport, this area is still a well-kept secret, allowing for a quieter and more isolated stay. In my mind, Lago Maggiore is a place to drink Negronis, play cards, and go fishing for pesce persico, a tasty yet evil predatory fish. If you have too many Negronis, you may end up doing a backflip into the lake, but fear not—you’re too large of a catch for even the scariest of lake monsters.
Lugano
Our final stop is Lugano. Although officially on the Swiss side of the Ticino region, Lugano retains a mostly Italian atmosphere and appearance. This penthouse apartment is located in one of the few high-rise buildings in Lugano, offering unparalleled views of the lake and the city below. Lugano is the warmest area of Switzerland, known for palm trees and a subtropical climate. Unlike many of the towns and cities located on the lakes we have visited, Lugano is also an economic hub for international finance and a permanent home to many year-round residents. Read: it offers some sweet tax breaks, meaning you’ll hear the roar of many luxury automobiles dodging payments back home.
If you’re looking to invest in the area - from buying a watch to a boat to an Airbnb property of your own - I’ve got you covered.
And if you still don’t get it - you’re just not a lake person.