Frolic Log Week 3: The Algarve

A quest for tiny fried fish and a vantage point.

Aug 09, 2024

When you think of Portugal, various images might come to mind, depending on your audience. Some envision massive waves, others think of sardines, and, unfortunately, an alarming subset associates it with golf. Personally, I’d rather avoid athletic polo shirts and the clank of metal clubs. It’s nothing against the sport per se; I just don’t want to be near anything so lacking in local relevance when I’m in a country as beautiful as Portugal.

When I visit Portugal, I want my fish fried and tiny, my wine green and fresh, and the language spoken around me mysterious and indiscernible.

The Algarve, Portugal’s southernmost region, stretches from the Atlantic Ocean in the west to Spain in the east. The region, whose name derives from the Arabic Al-Gharb (“The West”), retains much of its Moorish influence in its architecture—flat roofs, patterned ceramic tiles, and ornate decorations.

Due to the influx of foreign golfing enthusiasts, the Algarve has seen a significant rise in new real estate investors. Often, these avid athletes purchase cookie-cutter houses in gated communities. For the sake of today’s journey, we will be steering far clear of these. Our journey is for those who crave a life lived with character. So please, allow me to charm you.

Lagoa

This home was built in the style of a Quinta—a traditional Portuguese country estate. It might be a villa, but it’s not trying too hard. The bedrooms open onto a central courtyard, and hammocks abound. It’s perfect for those who want to feel like lords of their estate.

Located a 45 minute drive from Faro airport, Lagoa lies in the center of the Algarve coast and is ideally situated to explore some of its most captivating beaches.

Silves

I love a house on a big plot of land, but what truly shines in Portugal is an expertly renovated village townhouse. At first glance, all you see is a row of little houses. As you near your destination, you’re excited to spot one with a finer paint job and a beautiful blue door. But what lies inside is beyond your wildest dreams: multiple layers of whitewashed terraces, stairs leading to vantage points, and pools adorned with green tiles.

Tavira

This is one bad-ass Quinta. “Casa do Troco used to be an old trading house with a barbershop and a ballroom, where the inhabitants of the neighboring villages danced to the sound of a local accordion player.” Talk about a story to tell! Traditional reed ceilings meet cement floors, and the views of rolling hills stretch endlessly. The owners of this house truly outdid themselves with the renovations.

Olhão

I owe my knowledge of this tiny fishing village to my sister, whose adventure brought her to this magical place and spun her around. Olhão’s center is best navigated with a stiff drink in hand as you try not to lose yourself in its cobblestoned maze. The real goal when staying here isn’t to drown in luxuries; the experience that most nourishes the soul is scaling a fresh fish on the rooftop, popping it on the grill, and leaning over the wall to yell at your loved ones to be ready for dinner in ten.

The beaches in Olhão are located on sandbar islands and are accessible by ferry (or taxi boat). Few people inhabit them year-round, but if you encounter them, you’re guaranteed a good tale. I’ve selected this strategic watchtower of a townhouse for your stay. The highest terrace offers views of Olhão’s red brick market and the lagoons.

Bordeira

This beautiful home is located in the pedestrian center of Bordeira, offering stunning views of a local church. On the western coast of the Algarve, Bordeira is conveniently close to a selection of surf beaches (and prime sunset views). It feels isolated enough for those moments of solitude, yet central enough that you can pour yourself out the front door and into the main square to purchase your daily dose of Bacalhau.